Jovial Monk Brew
Part 1>> Contents
: Foreword : Quick
Intro : 1 : 2
: 3 : 4 :
Part 2>> Introduction
: 1 : 2 : 3
Chapter 5 (Download coming
As pointed out at the end of the last Chapter, brewing
with beer concentrates is the most expensive way to brew. Full mash
is actually the cheapest way, but using bulk extract is a halfway
house: mash tuns and the knowledge of how to mash are not needed.
We do need a decent kettle, the bigger the better,
20L at least. If you intend to eventually move on to full mashing,
even if not for some time, you would be advised to buy a 40-50L
stainless steel kettle, plus a 3 ring burner, high pressure regulator
and 9Kg propane bottle. The reason is that you need to do a full
wort boil of all fermentables while not making the boil gravity
so high that you cannot extract enough bitterness in the boil. For
our vigorous 10-15L boils the kitchen stove won't be good enough.
Before we look at what extracts are available, here
is one golden rule for good extract brewing:
Use light extract, and get the color and flavor
from specialty malts
So, there is no need to order 25kg of dark extract.
Light extract is the go, so which one?
Dry extracts, Bintani light, Muntons Spraymalt extra
light and band dried light are all possible candidates. The spraymalt
is so fine that it flies up with even the most careful handling
and settles over every surface in the room. Trust me, I know!
Dry malt extract will suck moisture out of the Sahara!
Once you open the bag you have the problem of preventing the malt
attracting moisture and turning into unusable “toffee.”
You can carefully transfer some of it into airtight containers,
put cling wrap right on the surface of the extract etc.
Liquid extracts, only Coopers bulk liquid malt is
a candidate. It is a good choice.
Surprisingly, the liquid malt can be easier to handle
than the dried (buy a 25L food grade bucket and lid, buy and fit
a honeygate (from an apiarist supplies shop) and pour the extract
into the bucket. By adjusting how wide the honeygate is open an
exact (to 1g) amount can be measured.
The disadvantage of liquid malt is that it gets stale
quicker than dried malt, and a bucket once opened must be used up
within 6 months or mould will start growing on top of the extract.
Some discussion of malt extracts can be found here.
The Bodensatz site has lots of good information and
I have studied the specifications for all the bulk
extracts available in Adelaide and have decided to recommend the
Coopers light liquid malt extract. It is made entirely from malt,
unlike all the dried extracts. With dried malt extract you will
need to cut it with sucrose to avoid ending up with a gluggy, high
FG beer. The Coopers, being locally produced is a bit cheaper and
it does not have the attenuation problem of the dried extract.
I will discuss both the use of dried and liquid extract
and show how to convert the recipes using liquid extract to dried
Make sure the extract is fresh, then use it within
six months. As extract stales, the beers made from it acquire the
unpleasant “extract twang.” An extract beer made with
stale extract and high sugar (dextrose or sucrose) content may also
develop a cidery taste not wanted in beer. Liquid extract does age
quicker than the dried extract, so buy a bucket of it at the start
of the brewing year and finish it up within the six months.
If you brew relatively infrequently it will be advisable
to buy a bag of the dried extract, good for 24 months, instead of
Coopers Liquid bulk extract comes in 29Kg buckets
and retails for $125, $4.31 per Kg, way cheaper than the 1.5Kg cans
($9.95/1.5Kg=$6.63/Kg) let alone the 1.7Kg kits!
Dried extracts start at $140 for 20Kg sack, $7.00
per Kg. Way dearer than the Coopers! No, not really, since the liquid
extracts contain water you need 1.2Kg of liquid extract to equal
1Kg of dried. So the Coopers 29Kg bucket contains the equivalent
of 29/1.2 = 24.17Kg of dry extract, costing $125/24.17 = $5.17/Kg
dry malt equivalent.
One other consideration before getting into the extract
brewing: extract and part mashes go together really well, so I hope
you will look in the Part Mash chapters in Part
2 of this manual, and gradually start using base malts to supplement
the extract and improve your beers!
Procedure using dried extract
This has been explained in Chapters 3
& 4. Add the required amount of cold
water and have your kettle over moderate heat. Scoop in say 500g
dried extract, stir to dissolve, add the next 500g until it is all
dissolved, bring to a simmer, skim the foam.
Beforehand you would have steeped the specialty grains
and/or performed a minimash. When the wort is simmering quietly,
pretty much free of the foam, strain the wort from the grain and/or
sparge the minimash and add this wort to the kettle. Simmer a bit
more, skim any new foam that appears, then turn the heat up and
add the hops, etc.
I must stress that, as you are adding much more extract
you will get much more of the foam when the wort reaches boiling
point. Be ready! Adding all the bittering hops before the wort reaches
boiling point will very much reduce the danger of the foam boiling
Procedure using liquid extract
Place the specified amount of cold or hot water in
your kettle and bring that to boiling. I recommend carefully bailing
out two litres of the boiling hot water to another food-grade container,
add the extract to that, stir well to dissolve add back to the kettle.
You will probably find a small amount of syrup on the bottom of
the smaller container, rinse that off with a small amount of hot
water and add that to the kettle.
Adding liquid extract direct to the kettle, even
with the heat off, will likely result in some extract sticking to
the bottom of the kettle and burning! Funnily enough, all the books
I have read recommend adding the liquid extract to the kettle. I
really wonder if those authors actually did any extract brewing!
Again, the foam from the coagulating broken down
bits of protein will form a pretty huge foam and require skimming
or adding the first hop addition prior to boiling point to reduce
the danger of boilovers.
Add dried extract to cold water, add liquid
extract to hot water. Watch for the foam and skim or add some or
all of the first hop addition to prevent boilovers!
Converting liquid extract recipes to dried
This is fairly easy, but remember to convert the
right way round! Liquid extract contains water so you need more
of it to replace dried malt extract and you need less dried malt
extract to replace a given amount of liquid malt extract.
Assuming Wl is the amount of liquid malt in the recipe
and Wd the weight of dried extract you need to replace the liquid
Wd = Wl/1.2 so 12Kg liquid malt can be replaced by
12/1.2 = 10Kg dried
Now, assuming you saw a recipe using dried malt extract,
and want to convert it to liquid malt extract, you go as follows
Wl = Wd x 1.2 so 10Kg dried malt can be replaced
with 12Kg liquid malt
While we are on the topic of conversions from published
5US gallons = 18.9L, 6US gallons = 22.7L 1US gallon
1US quart = .25US gallon = 2US pints = .946L
1US pound (# or lb) = .454Kg
°F to °C = (F-32) x .5555
A note about boil volumes and hop bitterness
In the recipes in the next chapter I assume you can
boil 20L of wort:- it is really hard to brew beers from extract
without doing a full wort boil or close to it. However, while you
are getting kettle and burner etc organised the following procedure
can be used. The problem with very concentrated boils is that the
hop utilisation suffers, not enough bitterness is extracted from
the hops and the beers taste too sweet.
To overcome this we wil do a split boil. In the biggest
pan you have, boil all the extract bar one kilo. This boil should
be vigorous but need only last 20 minutes. Get this wort chilling.
In an 8L pan add 4L water and one kilo liquid extract, bring this
to the vigorous boil stage, then add the hops and boil for a total
of 70 minutes, adding the next addition when the boil has fifteen
minutes left to go. Cool, strain from the hops into the fermenter.
Rather a mess and extra work etc. You should start doing full wort
boils as soon as possible.
Doing a full wort boil ending with 22L of wort makes
chilling the wort difficult, unless a immersion or counterflow wort
chiller is acquired, see the Full Mash chapter in Part 2. One customer
chills his wort by putting the kettle on the first step of his swimming
pool, wort is cooled to ambient in 20 minutes. I do not give notes
on calculating hop bitterness here as there are too many variables.
If you have a recipe we will be happy to advise on the hop additions.
If you do want to calculate IBUs etc look at the Brew Math chapter
in Part 2 of this Manual.
Based on a 22L batch, to work out the OG of a recipe
you might formulate or find on the web:
1Kg dried extract adds 364/22 = 17 gravity units
to the beer
1Kg liquid malt extract adds 303/22 = 14 gravity
units to the beer
So if you dissolve 1Kg dried extract in 22l of 20°C
water you end up with a wort of OG = 1017. If you brew double batches,
44L, then a kilo of dried extract yields 8 gravity units and a kilo
of liquid extract yields 7 points. More generally, if you want to
brew a volume, V1, of beer other than 22L then multiply extract
and hop quantities given in a recipe by V1/22. So, if you brew 25L
batches multiply the quantities given in the recipes in Chapter
7 by 25/22 (or multiply by 1.136.)
Since we are also steeping specialty grains (crystal
or caramalt or dark roasted grains) we need to work out the gravity
supplied by those:
250g of specialty malts gives 2 gravity points in
22L of wort
500g of specialty malts gives 4.5 gravity points in 22L of wort
750g of specialty malts gives 7 gravity points in 22L of wort
1000g of specialty malts gives 9 gravity points in 22L of wort
All the recipes given will contain specialty malts
in multiples of 250g, for other recipes 100g specialty malts gives
.9 gravity units.
Having seen lots of crap recipes on the net and in
books I urge you to calculate out a recipe before brewing it to
avoid disappointment. If a recipe gives an ingredient like “500g
crystal malt” or “500g caramunich” then actually
use 250g light crystal/caramalt and 250g dark crystal/caramalt or
even 170g each light, medium and dark crystal/caramalt. This way
you will get some complexity in your beer.
Replacing “crystal malt” with crystal
rye or crystal wheat will really bump up the flavor and color of
your beer! Cararoma will add a fair bit of color from even a small
addition, chocolate malt in the same amount will really darken your
beer. 35g of black patent malt will give your beer a “red”
color. If using chocolate, black malt or roast barley in amounts
over 100g then cold steep these, see Chapter
Avoid “steeping” adjuncts like rolled
oats or puffed or flaked wheat rye or barley, these really need
to be mashed with a small amount of pale malt and will add starch
haze to your beer if just “steeped.” Pale, brown, amber,
Munich and Vienna malts also need to be mashed, not steeped. Use
amber dried extract in place of Munich or Vienna malt.
So, let us work through a recipe for a stout.
To make a gutsy stout we will cold steep 250g chocolate
malt and 500g roast barley in 2.5L water the day before brewday,
this will give a definite roasty-toasty flavor and nice licorice
On brewday add 4Kg liquid malt extract to 20L hot
water, stir well to fully dissolve, bring the wort to simmering
point, cope with the foam then strain the wort from the grains using
a metal-mesh sieve, sparge with 250ml water heated to 80°C.
Bring to a vigorous boil, add the bittering hops, boil 60 minutes,
whirlpool, chill and strain into fermenter.
Let us calculate the Original Gravity of the stout:
|250 g chocolate malt
|500g roast barley
Original Gravity in units 62
So our stout has a Original Gravity of 1062. Because
the dark malts are only 10% fermentable the stout will have a final
gravity 6-7 points higher than if we had steeped 750g crystal malt
with our 5Kg of extract. Our one addition of hops will provide about
40IBU, so this is a stout gutsy in all ways a beer can be gutsy
and will benefit from several months ageing.
Hoppy extract brewing!
Part 1>> Contents
: Foreword : Quick
Intro : 1 : 2
: 3 : 4 :
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